There’s a lot that goes on behind the scenes of the Modelo Variety Free Stage every year at the Stanislaus County Fair.
Between the sound checks and before retreating to their trailers to cool off, get dressed, and get their hair and makeup done, one of the most important matters of business is for artists and their crew to eat before taking the stage in front of thousands of fans for almost two hours.
There to help now is a familiar face.
This year’s fair is the first in which John Gardner and his team at Farm Truck Catering will be providing meals for the talent. For each of the 10 days of Turlock’s staple midsummer event, Farm Truck Catering is providing a full spread to those who will rock the stage.
“I would say this is the coolest event that we've done,” said Gardner, who is one of the original founders of Table 26 in Turlock.
Over the past year, Farm Truck Catering has worked at events up and down the Central Valley, including a few events for the City of Turlock and the Turlock Chamber of Commerce. That’s when he first connected with folks associated with the fair, and in April, was presented the opportunity to apply for the catering contract.
Starting this year, Farm Truck Catering has a three-year contract to cater for performers, with a two-year option to make the deal last up to five years.
It’s a far cry from where the business was a year ago, when Gardner had just two events on the calendar in July. But for each of the past three months now, Farm Truck Catering has worked upwards of 25 events, on top of their responsibilities to serve the famous names behind the Modelo Variety Free Stage.
“We've worked with some pretty big companies like Google for a five-day job up in Sonoma, gone to a lot of places and have done a lot of things, but this is home. That's what was so cool about the opportunity to be here,” Gardner said.
Names gracing the stage this week include Drake Milligan, Hunter Hayes and Ash Ruder, as well as groups like Jefferson Starship, Confunkshun, Taking Back Sunday, Ozomatli and LOCASH.
Opening day on Friday was Farm Truck Catering’s first job of the week, serving up tri-tip and chicken for Milligan and his band, a meal that one of the men called the best catering they ever had on the road.
“Those guys travel all over the place, they try all kinds of stuff, so them saying that meant a lot,” Gardner said. “It was a special moment between artist to artist. They have artistry on a stage, and I have artistry behind the stage. We’re all just doing what we love, telling our story. They get to do it through a microphone; I get to do it through a plate.”
Ahead of Ruder’s homecoming concert on Saturday, Gardner and his crew served up Gilroy garlic chicken with roasted garlic confit, artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes, as well as rockfish with piccata sauce.
Sundays traditionally bring the big Hispanic bands, with Los Nuevos Ilegales and Banda Renovación coming to town this year. For the first weekend, his team put together a spread of pulled pork, smoked chicken, macaroni and cheese, Okie beans, coleslaw and potato salad. “It’s more like a barbecue,” Gardner said. “That's a big band, like a bus full of them, so we're having a lot of fun with it.”
Later this week, vegetarian fajitas are on the menu, made with squash and onions, as well as chicken and prime beef.
The vegetables and fruits used in each dish come from Gardner’s family farm between Delhi and Turlock. All other ingredients, such as the meats and fish, are locally sourced. Preparation for each dish this week has usually begun three days in advance.
“Wherever we go, we want to represent the Central Valley,” Gardner said. “I stay true to that mantra right there: crafting, creating, connecting and celebrating the San Joaquin. That's what this whole idea is, growing and sourcing all of this in Turlock. It truly is farm-to-fork.
“It’s about celebrating the San Joaquin Valley, because obviously it’s near and dear to the heart. I’ve said it before, but representing Portuguese, Hispanic and Okie cultures was my driving force. If I don't do it, and if we don't continue this legacy, then it's gone. I want to make a business out of connecting people to their past, to their history, to their culture and combine that together as a chef. That's my artistry, right? So it’s just special to be here doing this.”
